Cuff Construction
The cuffs on Highland Dance tartan hose are quite sturdy which lends itself well to the demands that this type of dance puts on the socks. The cuff is constructed of three layers of knitting. There is a marl section behind the top argyle section and these two layers fold over on top of another marl section. See the pictures below: folded and unfolded.
The dancer will want to wear a garter under the cuff so the hose don't fall down during the impact of dancing.
Methods
There are two methods that I have used to construct the triple weight cuffs. There may be even more ways. Many argyle sock patterns don't include any folded cuff options. A traditional ribbed edge that many sock patterns include would not look correct or function well with Highland Dance hose. Adding no fold at all would not allow for a garter placement and the edge would be flimsy and probably roll. The socks would fall down. There is a method with two layers where the first argyle section folds over a marl section. (Described in the book: "Designs for Knitting Kilt Hose" by Veronica Gainford). It should work, though I haven't tried this method. I like the sturdier triple weight designs.
Instructions are included later in this post.
Tartan Hose Origami
Before describing how to knit using the two different methods, take a look at the following diagram. This should help to visualize how the sections in the two methods are folded I have created a fun little cutout in the image and PDF link below. The final product makes a great bookmark!
I have done this by hand on a piece of paper a few times before starting just to make sure I understand how the sections are folded and attached.
Note: The cutout on the left is Cuff Method One and the right is Cuff Method Two.
Method One
The first cuff construction method that I learned was from the Wool Express Kit pattern. A summary of the instructions follow:
- Cast on the number of stitches required for the argyle width. (Eg. 33 stitch argyle X 3 argyles wide = 99 stitches)
- Knit one section of marl only in stocking stitch. The number of rows is the same as the argyle size. (Eg. 33 stitch argyle = 33 rows)
- Knit one argyle section following the graph selected from the argyle chart generator.
- In reverse stocking stitch, knit another section of marl only. Same number of rows as argyle size.
After knitting these three sections carry on with other argyle sections on the same side as the third section (continuing in reverse stocking stitch.) At the end of the tartan hose knitting, after blocking and finishing the center back seam, loosely seam the first marl and argyle sections wrong sides together.
Method Two
The second cuff construction method that I learned was from Kathy Park (Bonnie Toes). I can't post her pattern, as it has a copyright. She has described the cuff method on forums: dance.net and Ravelry.com. I will describe it in my own words
- Cast on the number of stitches required for the argyle width. (Eg. 33 stitch argyle X 3 argyles wide = 99 stitches)
- Knit the first argyle section, following the graph selected from the argyle chart generator.
- Knit one section of stocking stitch using marl yarn. The number of rows is the same as the argyle size. (Eg. 33 stitch argyle = 33 rows)
- Before starting the next row, I like to weave in all the ends from the argyle section and block the knitting so that everything lines up nicely and the edges are not curled up.
- The next row should be a knit row, which will be attached to the cast-on row using a hemmed edge technique. The video (not mine), shows the technique for picking up stitches from the cast on row. If this video is hard to follow try searching for another video on YouTube or look up the technique in your favorite general knitting reference book.
- After attaching the cast-on row continue with another marl section. The first row is a purl row and the last row should be a knit row. The number of rows is the argyle size plus one. (Eg. for a 33 stitch argyle knit 34 rows of stocking stitch.)
After knitting these three sections carry on with other argyle sections on the same side. The second argyle section should start with a purl row.
Attach cast on edge using hemmed edge technique:
After blocking
Attach cast-on edge: in progress
Attach cast-on edge: completed
Back side of cuff
Front side of cuff
Comparing Two Methods
I have a slight preference to the second method, mainly because some of the finishing is completed early on. Here are some of the reasons you may want to pick one method over the other:
Method One:
- The seam where the sections are joined is hidden on the inside of the cuff.
- The marl sections are split before and after the argyle sections. If you find doing two sections of marl consecutively to be tedious, this method breaks it up.
- Starts with a marl. If you are nervous about diving into the argyle section, using a chart and intarsia technique this method lets you "warm up" first with an easy marl section.
- Less finishing up front. This allows you to dive right into the second argyle section without having to block or weave in ends. Good for procrastinators.
Method Two:
- Jump into an argyle section right away. It's very satisfying to see your beautiful color combination and design take shape at the start.
- Some of the finishing is complete early on in the process. Weaving ends and sewing seams is not always the most fun task. It's good to get some of this done right away.